From My Seat (at Real Sociedad)

Steve Hogan 28/05/2016 35comments  |  Jump to last

First of all, an apology to Ken Buckley for stealing his regular headline but I'm sure he won't mind on this occasion, and anyway, I'm trying to provide some light relief from our current situation where the search for our new manager seems to change by the hour.

The trip to Northern Spain was prompted by my birthday treat to myself, a journey I have being trying to make for the last 10 years if the truth be known, because I have heard so much about the Basque region and San Sebastian in particular. So it was then, that myself and five mates (all male), a mixture of guys from the village I live in, and a couple of long standing friends who I have kept in touch with from various jobs I have had over the last 20 years.

A one-hour fifty minute flight, costing around £90.00 return, from Manchester Airport direct to Bilbao, saw us land into a sunny and warm Northern Spain, then an hour on the bus direct from the airport to the city of San Sebastian or Donostia in Basque. We were able to walk to our seafront apartment which was about 20 minutes from the bus station through a busy town centre that had a high proportion of visiting cars with french number plates on.

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I since found out that the french border is around 30 km away and the city has always had a large influx of french visitors from Biarritz who come for the superb food and drink on offer, more on that later.

Forgive me if I digress a bit from the football element of the trip, but San Sebastian is a truly remarkable city on the sea, with a fantastic 'old town' famous for it's pintxo (tapas bars) offering small dishes at between €3-4 each. Each bar specialises in seafood or local aged ham at really reasonable prices

On that particular Sunday, all the La Liga games kicked off at 4pm, and we decided to take an early morning walk along Playa De La Concha, a massive white sandy stretch of flat beach stretching the length of the city from end to end. Five junior football matches were taking place (while the tide was out I guess), regular league games according to a local.

We decided not to buy any match tickets in advance, the game versus Rayo Vallecano, more important to the away team on this occasion, as they simply had to win to avoid relegation, the home team happily settled in mid-table safety.

As we followed the modest crowd through the streets of the old town (no fat vans Ken), we allowed ourselves enough time to head to El Nido, a bar we found and liked which also had a framed and signed Everton shirt of 'the best little spaniard we know' – Mikel Arteta, it was only then I remembered he was from this neck of the woods.

I wonder what OFM made of San Sebastian during his brief 12 month stay here? It's probably the most 'unfootball' like city or town I've ever visited really, and given the size of the place. I often wonder why British managers are tempted over here, because a team like 'La Real', can never compete with the big boys of Barcelona, Real Madrid, Valencia etc, and so they will be financially restricted from the start, even though the strict policy on 'basque' only players was lifted in 1989. What's 'knife to a gunfight' in Spanish?

We arrived at the ground around 3pm, an hour before KO, and both sets of supporter's were mingling freely in local bars, in what was largely a residential area on the edge of town, and you just knew that there would be NO trouble whatsover, simply because both sets of supporters, were happily having a drink, without going over the top.

I have to profess my ignorance here, I didn't know what part of Spain Rayo Vallecano were from, and was surprised to discover they were from Madrid. Prior to that, I thought Madrid just hosted two teams, Real and Atletico. Hats off to the Vallecano fans who had travelled in good numbers from Madrid of a Sunday, to try and cheer their team on, and hoped for a miracle.

The Sociedad ground was more impressive on the inside than out, the exterior of the stadium was largely plain grey concrete slabs, but the inside was very much along the lines of the Macron stadium at Bolton Wanderers, with pale blue seats on two tiers, and certainly good value seats on the upper tier on the side, for €30 each.

In truth, the match itself was an ordinary affair in front of 18,000 spectators, livened up by the noisy away fans who were giving their team great support, certainly not going down without a fight. Ironically, much of the football was similar to what we have witnessed at Goodison for much of this season, slow, slow, quick quick slow, without the quality in the final third.

Sociedad went ahead against the run of play after 12 minutes through Oyarzabal after a well worked goal, and that was the score at halftime. They went further ahead after 50 minutes through Bautista, a low shot from the edge of the box. Vallecano, were a little unfortunate to be 2-0 down at this stage, and a curling shot from Guerra after 69 minutes eventually got them back in the game. In the 76th minute, Granero received a straight red card for Sociedad after a stupidly high tackle on a Vallecano player. The expected onslaught from the away team never materialised though, and the game fizzled out.

Both teams stayed on the pitch at the end for a 'lap of appreciation' but we crept away into the bright sunshine and let the local fans and players acknowledge each other's efforts.

All in all, a 'footy' trip with a difference, I guess all of us believe we are the 'most passionate' of supporters in the land, but spare a thought for Madrid's 'third' team Rayo Vallenco, and their fans (around 1,500 of them at a guess) who made the long journey from Madrid in the forlorn hope they could grab the win that would keep them in the top flight.

Anyone wanting to experience a footballing weekend with a 'difference', try San Sebastian, even the wife would enjoy it.

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Reader Comments (35)

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Derek Thomas
1 Posted 29/05/2016 at 07:51:32
Interesting piece Steve, always good to see how the other half live. I wonder what your Basque counterpart would make of L4? should they have rolled up for say the Norwich game the other week.
Steve Hogan
2 Posted 29/05/2016 at 08:37:25
Thanks Derek, probably made straight for the Wilmslow!!
Dave Abrahams
3 Posted 29/05/2016 at 09:03:01
Good report Steve, sounds like a nice place for a quiet few days away, do you know if Liverpool Airport do flights to this area?
Steve Hogan
4 Posted 29/05/2016 at 09:24:43
Dave (3) Not sure about Liverpool Airport, don't think they do, but check their website?
Tony Abrahams
5 Posted 29/05/2016 at 09:33:52
They would have enjoyed themselves Derek, because if my memory is correct, they are very similar to ourselves the Basque's.

Good report Steve, and a cracking place to go, whoever decided on that mate.

Dave, Manchester to BILBOA, and then an hour on the bus, to get to San Sebastián. You and me mother would love it there, we can book it for your birthday, if she fancies it!

Tony Abrahams
6 Posted 29/05/2016 at 09:52:45
Steve, I'm being genuine here, but did the kids wear footwear, or play in their bare-feet, when you watched them play footy on the beach?
Eric Myles
7 Posted 29/05/2016 at 09:56:03
Funny you mention the lap of appreciation at the end, was it the last home game? I was at the last home game of Inter a couple of weeks back and there was no lap made there.
Alan Bodell
8 Posted 29/05/2016 at 11:00:53
This is a nice report and reminds me of the locals when we were in Villareal, so friendly they were and Steve, did you find out how they rated David Moyes ?
Steve Hogan
9 Posted 29/05/2016 at 11:44:00
Tony (6), the kids were wearing light trainers, they used rope for the touchlines.

Alan (8), they never mentioned Moyes at all, think he's been airbrushed from their records. I got the feeling that although the locals were proud of their Basque heritage and identity (lots of Basque flags in the area), they perhaps don't have the intensity of British football fans?

I stand to be corrected though.

Steve Hogan
10 Posted 29/05/2016 at 11:46:32
Eric (7), it was their last home game of the season. The player's certainly stayed on the pitch at the end of the game.
John Hughes
11 Posted 29/05/2016 at 11:51:15
It's the Wilnslow Steve, sorry to be so predantic, especially if it's a typing error. But having spent many weekends in and around Sans Sebastián whilst working I enjoyed your article.
Dave Ganley
12 Posted 29/05/2016 at 12:07:28
Cheers for the report Steve. Always thought about going abroad to a game from another league but it was always with the intention of seeing one of the bigger clubs. You have made me think again after your report as it looks like it could be fun going to one of the less so called fashionable clubs. It's also a good way of visiting places you wouldn't ordinarily visit either. Thanks again, Steve.
Tony Abrahams
13 Posted 29/05/2016 at 12:12:49
Beach footy, in the sun, sure beats our kids playing, in the wind, the rain, and on a mud bath. Skill over strength, and much more enjoyable!

Must Get onto the club, because this place would be great for a pre-season friendly.

Len Hawkins
14 Posted 29/05/2016 at 14:14:19
Must say the Bundesliga is worth a go I can almost taste the Bratwurst in a crusty roll covered in mustard and beer to die for. The football isn't too bad either.
Dave Abrahams
15 Posted 29/05/2016 at 14:59:16
Tony ( 5), not being ungrateful, but you are going to book a holiday for MY birthday if YOUR MOTHER fancies it...

Tony who is the boss of the house?

Yes, I think we will be going then!!!!!!!!

Tony Draper
16 Posted 29/05/2016 at 15:12:14
John @11
Sorry mate, but the pub is called "The Winslow Hotel".

http://www.thewinslowhotel.co.uk/

And "pedantic" doesn't have an "r" in it either.

I'll get me tweed jacket (the one with the leather elbow patches).

Sue Brown
17 Posted 29/05/2016 at 15:52:46
A good read that Steve. Brings back happy memories of camping holidays in San Sebastián years ago. Doesn't sound too different from what I remember, it is a beautiful place. Well in you!
Nick Entwistle
18 Posted 29/05/2016 at 16:53:26
This was a nice read. Maybe opening up a new potential for ToffeeWebbers this summer - holiday reviews with an element of football. May pitch that to Sky...

Just to be pedantic, Getafe is in the Madrid metropolitan area along with 4 or 5 others. And you can also add Real Madrid Castillo to the City based teams.

Steve Hogan
19 Posted 29/05/2016 at 17:18:29
Nick (18)

Hi Nick, not being pedantic at all. Think we can all be a bit 'blinkered' when it comes to teams outside of L4, glad you've filled a few more 'gaps' in our football geography.

Damian Wilde
20 Posted 29/05/2016 at 17:34:06
Nice read. I fancy a trip there. Cheers Steve.

I bet this place was wasted on Moyes!

Denis Richardson
21 Posted 29/05/2016 at 18:13:17
Nice read Steve, was there myself about ten years ago, lovely place and fantastic food.

Tony 13 - guess you've never played sports on sand, its fking knackering, much more than running on grass. Also playing beach footy in bare feet (with a leather ball) is seriously not advisable (unless your used to it). Tried it once and shredded the skin on both feet!

John Hughes
22 Posted 29/05/2016 at 18:21:55
Just checking, of course your correct bad typing error in a hurry to get to the pub never checked, but glad you are pedantic Tony in correcting me, but don't bother with your coat a bollicking will do. It was still a good read tho' don't you think Tony, well done Steve!
Tony Abrahams
23 Posted 30/05/2016 at 09:10:37
Dennis, I have you know, and I found it really hard. You have to concentrate so much more when the ball is coming your way, which definately improves anyone's first touch.

I've also played in the mud, with the rain in my face, and not much skill involved. I think I know why the Spanish, and South Americans, are much more comfortable on the ball now.

Instead of shredded feet, they gain a soft touch, what's down there's for dancing, in Spanish!?

Jefferson Gard
24 Posted 30/05/2016 at 09:25:03
Ran the half marathon there in late November, lovely place, especially the front. The fact I ran in an Everton top and finished in the stadium did not go unnoticed.
Tony Draper
25 Posted 30/05/2016 at 09:25:12
John H.
You're quite right it is a good read and in my haste to take the Mickey out of you, I completely forgot my manners.

Steve H, thanks for the piece, well worth the read. Sounds a place well worth the trip on a number of levels.

Sam Morrison
26 Posted 30/05/2016 at 10:05:03
Good read, thanks Steve.

Nick (18) in the holiday/football combo you mention I went to Siena with my football team to play against a local side (one of whom had moved to the UK and played with us, hence the link).

I don't recall the result because I wasn't there to see it – I fell ill and spent Saturday might in the Siena hospital, where my team-mates filmed me looking like death and made it part of the weekend's documentary. Great times.

Nick Entwistle
27 Posted 30/05/2016 at 12:04:31
Well, come on, Sam, YouTube a link!
Sam Morrison
28 Posted 30/05/2016 at 21:33:49
Thankfully, Nick, I don't think it ever made it on there.
Ron Sear
30 Posted 31/05/2016 at 15:19:57
Interesting but a real shame about the last unthinking sexist sentence, a horrible insult to all the female Everton supporters. What is it with the last vestiges of the male population who think women can't enjoy football or be keen fans of a club?
Steve Hogan
31 Posted 31/05/2016 at 18:09:07
Ron (30) I'm not quite sure whether your being serious or not? I've never considered myself to be remotely sexist in any shape or form.

At the same time, I enjoy going away with a bunch of lads as well?

And I know my wife (who hates football by the way), enjoys the company of her female mates, think your being a tad sensitive.

Tim Richardson
32 Posted 03/06/2016 at 22:43:36
Steve - great stuff! I was at that game with my lad who is living in San Sebastián. We went as Sociadad fans and like you, I didn't know anything about Rayo but I thought their fans were something special and did a bit of research at home. Love San Sebastián but Rayo are a proper people's club, socialist working class roots, my new favourite Spanish club. Shame they got relagated(!)

Nice to know there were at least three Blues in the stadium - we get everywhere! COYB!!!
Steve Hogan
33 Posted 04/06/2016 at 00:28:28
Hi Tim, glad you enjoyed the experience. I think San Sebastian has 'slipped under the radar' as far as lots of Brits are concerned, so many still migrate in their thousands to the 'costas' in Southern Spain.

If they wanted to taste a little bit of the real Spain, they should try it, even if it was only for the superb food and drink on offer. I'll definitely be going back soon. Your son is so fortunate to be spending part of his working life there, I'm so envious.

John Shearon
34 Posted 06/06/2016 at 17:50:14
Steve, loved your piece but please, "to taste a little bit of the real Spain" you would have to go to Spain. You were in Euskadi, the land of the Basques (minus 3 French provinces and Navarra) - the locals would not have been best pleased to be referred to as Spanish.

If you want an alternative Basque footy trip, however, you could always stay in the Bilbao region - not as pretty as Donostia but with a far richer and varied football offering. Apart from Athlétic in La Liga there are a number of third-tier (Segunda B) clubs along the river that leads to the sea from Bilbao itself: Sestao River, Barakaldo, Arenas de Getxo and Leioa, with Gernika and Amorebieta nearby.

These will be joined this season by Athlétic´s second string, Bilbao Athlétic, who were just relegated from the second tier. There are also a number of clubs in the tier just below who would be worth a visit - Portugalete, Getxo, Santutxu and Santurtzi to name a few. A little further afield, but still in Euskadi, you have the recently promoted Alavés in the capital, Vitoria or Eibar, still holding their own, along the coast towards San Sebastian - both in the top flight.

Who needs European football when there is such choice a short hop from home?
Ian Jones
35 Posted 06/06/2016 at 18:12:10
Vitoria is a beautiful city. Worth a visit. The Alaves team nearly overcame Liverpool in the old UEFA Cup. Gave them a right scare. Along with San Sebastian. Beautiful part of Europe
David Milner
36 Posted 09/06/2016 at 17:25:19
Nice read Steve. Living near Granada nowadays (need the sunshine in my declining years) I have a season ticket for Granada CF.

Both sets of fans traditionally drink together in the local bars before games. The difference here in Granada Province is that the Tapas is FREE with a beer.

My seat in the Preferencia stand, media central (on half way line) costs 415 euros for the season. The teams usually go to their fans to applaud them after each match.

The last game, highlight of the season, was Barcelona at home when I got to see Barcelona win the league. I do miss travelling to Goodison to see the Blues but not the 18 hour day from the south coast I used to endure.


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